A small basement wine cellar with a tape measure lying open on a wooden rack of unlabeled bottles, a through-the-wall cooling unit's grille high on the far wall and a glass door with an insulated frame at one side.

Choosing and comparing

Sizing a cellar cooling unit: heat load, not cubic feet

Sizing a wine cellar cooling unit means matching its rated output, in BTU per hour at your cellar temperature, to the room's heat load. Volume sets the baseline; insulation, glass, door seals, lighting and the temperature of the surrounding space can each push the load past a unit that looked big enough on volume alone.

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At a
glance.

Cubic feet are where the conversation starts and rarely where it ends. Two cellars of identical volume can need very different machines, because the insulation, the glass and the air on the far side of the wall all add heat the unit has to remove.

Read the whole guide

What is comparedUnit BTU per hour against the room's heat load

Both at the same cellar setting, usually 55°F.

GlassAbout R-3 at best

CellarPro's figure for glass panels, doors and windows.

Normal runtime once settledRoughly 30 to 50 minutes an hour

CellarPro's figure; constant running points to an undersized or overloaded setup.

Short-cyclingMore than eight compressor starts an hour

Wine Guardian's threshold for a check.

Load against output, not volume against a label

A cooling unit is rated for how much heat it can remove each hour at a stated cellar temperature. The room, meanwhile, leaks heat in through its walls, ceiling, floor, door and any glass, and adds its own from lights and people. The unit is the right size when its output at your chosen setting is at least equal to that load on the hottest days the surrounding space will see.

Makers publish charts that do this arithmetic for common cases. CellarPro's owner's manual for its 1800 series is a clear example: it lists the load for cellars of 100 to 400 cubic feet at two insulation levels and three surrounding temperatures, next to the output of each model at 55°F and 60°F.

CellarPro 1800 series chart, 200 cubic foot cellar held at 55°F (BTU per hour)
Surrounding airLoad with R-12 wallsLoad with R-19 walls
75°F1,3801,253
85°F1,5381,349
95°F1,6991,446

Reading that chart as an example

The smallest model in that family delivers 1,065 BTU per hour at 55°F, which covers none of the rows above. The next one up delivers 1,380, enough for the well-insulated room at 85°F but not for the thinly insulated one. The same cellar, the same bottles, and the answer changes with seven points of wall insulation and ten degrees of summer heat outside the door.

Source: CellarPro — 1800 Series owner's manual — Thermal load chart by volume, insulation and ambient; model outputs at 55°F and 60°F; glass at most R-3; R-11 walls minimum; recessed lights leak air; 30–50 minutes of runtime an hour; up to a week of initial running

What adds heat that volume does not show

Most mistakes in sizing a wine cellar cooling unit come from features the floor plan hides. A wall shared with a garage or an attic, a ceiling under a sunny roof, or an exterior wall facing west all raise the load. So does air leaking in around a door without weather stripping, or through recessed light cans, which CellarPro specifically warns can let air into the cellar.

  • Glass walls, doors and windows, which insulate far less than a framed wall.
  • A surrounding space that climbs above 85°F in summer.
  • Exterior walls and a ceiling with attic or roof above.
  • Lighting left on for display, and frequent door openings in a tasting room.
  • Humid air slipping in through gaps, which adds moisture the coil must condense.

Glass-fronted cellars

CellarPro puts glass at no better than R-3, against R-11 or more for a properly built cellar wall. WhisperKool's rule of thumb is simple: if glass is used and the room is close to a model's rated size, step up to the next larger system.

Humid regions

WhisperKool notes that high humidity significantly increases the load on the system. In Gulf Coast and Southern homes a complete vapor barrier matters twice: once for the wood and drywall, and once for the capacity it saves.

Source: CellarPro — 1800 Series owner's manual — Thermal load chart by volume, insulation and ambient; model outputs at 55°F and 60°F; glass at most R-3; R-11 walls minimum; recessed lights leak air; 30–50 minutes of runtime an hour; up to a week of initial running

Close on a tape measure stretched along the base of a tall wooden wine rack on a stone cellar floor.
Close on a tape measure stretched along the base of a tall wooden wine rack on a stone cellar floor.

Signs a unit is too small, or too big

An undersized unit runs and runs. CellarPro describes a settled cellar as one where the unit runs about 30 to 50 minutes in any given hour, and it notes that a new cellar being pulled down with fresh bottles can run nonstop for up to a week. Past that first week, a unit that never rests on a mild day, or a cellar that drifts above its setting every summer afternoon, is telling you the load is larger than the output.

An oversized unit has the opposite habit. It reaches the setting quickly, stops, and starts again soon after, and each short run removes little moisture from the air. Wine Guardian's maintenance list treats more than eight compressor starts an hour as short-cycling worth investigating. Oversizing is less common than undersizing, but it happens when a large unit is bought for a small room to be on the safe side.

  • Too small: long or continuous runs after the first week, a cellar that creeps up on hot afternoons, a condenser alarm in summer.
  • Too big: frequent short runs, a room that feels clammy, humidity that swings more than the temperature does.
  • Neither: a clean coil, a sealed door and runs that stay near the maker's normal share of each hour.

Source: CellarPro — 1800 Series owner's manual — Thermal load chart by volume, insulation and ambient; model outputs at 55°F and 60°F; glass at most R-3; R-11 walls minimum; recessed lights leak air; 30–50 minutes of runtime an hour; up to a week of initial running; Wine Guardian — Ducted split installation, operation and maintenance manual — Short-cycling defined as the compressor turning on and off more than eight times an hour

When the room changes after the unit was chosen

A unit that was right on day one can become too small without anything failing. The usual causes are a solid door replaced with a glass one, a neighboring storage room finished into a heated office, an exhaust space turned into a closet, or new display lighting. If the cellar started struggling after one of these, the room is the first thing to look at, not the compressor.

Recalculating is the same exercise as the original sizing, done with the room as it now is. Sometimes the answer is a larger unit; often it is cheaper to restore what was lost, by adding insulation, sealing the door or giving the exhaust side more air.

Step
by step.

Four steps, in the order worth doing them.

01

Measure the room

Length, width and height inside the finished walls, multiplied together for cubic feet. Note the size of any glass.

02

Note what surrounds it

For each wall, the ceiling and the floor, write down what is on the other side and its insulation if you know it.

03

Take the hot-season temperature outside the cellar

Measure the air where the unit will breathe on a warm afternoon, not on the day you happen to be shopping.

04

Compare with the maker's chart or calculator

Use the numbers at your intended setting and the warmest surrounding temperature. If you land near a model's limit, choose the next size.

A couple lifting a bottle from a lit stone-walled wine cellar, the cooling unit's grille high on the far wall
For the heart of your home.

Questions
owners ask.

How many cubic feet can one cooling unit handle?
It depends on the room as much as the unit. In CellarPro's own chart, its smallest model covers a 100 cubic foot cellar with R-19 walls beside a 75°F room, yet falls short in that same cellar with R-12 walls beside a 95°F space.
Is it safer to buy a bigger unit than I need?
Slightly larger is sensible when the room sits near a model's limit or has glass. Much larger brings short cycling, uneven humidity and more noise, so it is not free insurance.
Does a higher cellar setting change the size I need?
Yes. A unit delivers more at 60°F than at 55°F, and the room gains less heat at the higher setting. Most collectors store between 55°F and 60°F, and sizing at 55°F leaves a margin.
Why does a brand-new unit run all day in the first week?
It is pulling the air, the racks, the walls and every bottle down from room temperature. CellarPro says this initial run can last up to a week before normal cycling begins.

Back to your everyday

Read it and still not sure?

Book with what you checked and the model number, and the technician starts where the guide stopped.

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